Cockerel, Photo by RobW

QUESTION: Hey Plainclothesman, I’ve been burning to ask you this….over the holidays…Thanksgiving to be exact, I waited til Thanksgiving morning to go shopping. The only fresh bird Kroger had left was a Capon, which I later learned was a neutered Rooster. Thank goodness I chose Salmon! Anyway, a friend of my Mom’s told me that  it actually tastes pretty good. Go figure. What can you tell me about Capon? Have you had it? Is it good?

Signed,

Capon For Thanksgiving 2010.

SCUTTLEBUTT: A well informed Arkansan who has lived in this state well over 50 years told Mrs. Plainclothesman that Governor Winthrop Rockefeller introduced Capon to Arkansas and had it imported here from New York.

Capon, Photo by Sifu Renka

SKINNY: Well CFT 2010, I had not heard of Capon until your question but must say I can’t wait to experience it. As you’ve noted, CFT 2010 Capon is a neutered Rooster.

According to Harvey and Ellen Ussery of The Modern Homestead, “Caponizing has been practiced for thousands of years, by the Romans for example, as well as the ancient Chinese.” In their article, “Caponizing: Reviving a lost art,”  they state “as with castration of mammals, e.g., bull calves, the removal of testosterone-producing glands yields an animal that has better weight gain, is docile, and remains tender up to the day of slaughter.”

Our friends at Wikipedia tell us that “The Lex Faunia of 162 BCE forbade fattening hens as a way of conserving grain. In order to get around this the Romans castrated roosters, which resulted in a doubling of size.^“

Although I haven’t had Capon I believe your Mom’s friend is right…Capon appears to be a gourmand’s delight. Now as far as the scuttlebutt I could not find anything to connect Arkansas’ beloved Governor Rockefeller and Capon. However I did find this about Arkansas’ 27th governor, Thomas Jefferson Terral. Here’s an excerpt from a 1990 Arkansas Democrat Gazette article that shares Governor Terral’s interest and satisfaction with the tasty Capon.

“JOHN COOK OF North Little Rock joins those who are remembering incidents reported from the administration of Arkansas Gov. Tom Terrall. As somebody’s dinner guest, the governor was much taken with some fowl that was served. ” What is this?” he asked appreciatively. The host said, ” Governor, that’s capon.” Governor Terrall ate some more. ” Well, it’s delicious.” The chief executive was still remembering dinner when the evening ended and goodbyes were being said. “That meal was most enjoyable. If it’s possible, I would like very much to have a setting of those capon eggs.”

CHECK THIS OUT: How to castrate a rooster by a master at Sunshine Farms.

CHECK THIS OUT: Click here for Nasco’s Caponizing Kit.

CHECK THIS OUT: A beautiful Chinese caligraphy vignette of the cockerel